Richard (my husband) and I had a delightful dinner at Parq at the Montage Hotel, enscounced in a romantic booth sipping a bottle of big, buttery Dutton Chard 2007, selected by Eric, our exceptionally-informed waiter.
The urban sister of the Montage Laguna Beach, Montage Beverly Hills offers two fine dining experiences. I enjoy them both, but if I had to pick a favorite, I’d say Parq. A comfortablly chic room with tables and booths, seamless service and truly fine food, the restaurant under the toque of executive chef John Cuevas, features a fall menu filled with delectable finds. During our more recent sampling we sat in a romantic booth and enjoyed a creative tartare of creekstone beef–which Cuevas explained was a recontruction served in a canning jar with crispy pumpernickel bread. We also tried the pepper cruster Ahi tuna with cantaloupe and cucumber in sesame soy, an order of sushi rolls that had just the right spice, and for entrees perfectly prepared John Dory in tangerine and soft basil with citrus butter and a local halibut done on charred greens and cranberry pesto that was amazing. Our waiter Eric showed enthusiastic about the wine list and menu and really knew both well. He selected a special Chard that paired well with each course. Chocolate cake and cookies provided the grande finale. Anyone who eschews hotel restaurants will definitely change opinion when sampling Parq. Especially with Cuevas at the helm. Formerly as Chef de Cuisine at the award-winning The Loft at Montage Laguna Beach, Cuevas’s brought his creative American cuisine to Par showcasing seasonal, simply prepared ingredients.. “My passion has always been to take familiar and/or unfamiliar ingredients and introduce them to my staff. With the help of my team we take our creations to our guests in a way that is imaginative but more importantly, memorable and consistent.” says Cuevas. He displays a unique, fun and adventuresome take on food and favors simple food with bold flavors. With an admitted sweet tooth, he loves to combine sweet and savory nuances in many of his dishes, such as Pan-Seared Local White Sea Bass with Roasted Peppers, Crispy Artichokes and Whipped Mustard Oil; Braised Natural Vintage Short Ribs with Charred Romaine, Cheddar and Braising Jus and his signature 28-Day Dry-Aged Coffee-Crusted New York Strip with Fourme d’Ambert Cheese, Wild Arugula and Bourbon-Caramel Sauce. Cuevas’ culinary roots are deep-seeded. A native of San Diego, he takes his passion for cooking from his grandfather. His mother, who was raised in Minnesota, was the proprietor of a San Diego bistro. To familiarize himself with front-of-the-house operations, Cuevas first worked as a waiter and then moved into the kitchen at Loews Coronado Resort in San Diego. Intent on establishing himself as a chef, he went on to receive his formal culinary training at Scottsdale Culinary Institute in Arizona. Following culinary school, he took a position at The Phoenician’s showpiece restaurant, Mary Elaine’s, where he helped garner the restaurant Five-Stars from Mobil Travel Guide and Five Diamonds from the Automobile Association of America. Lured by California’s balmy weather and abundant fresh produce and seafood, he moved back to California in 2001 to serve as chef de cuisine at Motif at St. Regis Monarch Beach, Dana Point before joining the culinary team at Montage Laguna Beach. Parq at Montage, 225 N Canon Drive, Beverly Hills, www.montagebeverlyhills.com.
